Battery Feed Through Connector Long Powerpost
- #1
Howdy folks. Great to be here.
I'm building a 2 x 100ah 12v battery system for a boat.
I have sourced just about every component EXCEPT a nice battery post to attach to the top of my 2 battery boxes (I also still have to figure out the best waterproof box and how to keep the battery from moving around inside of it).
These are the ones WIll uses, although I don't know where he gets them and they are the only ones I can find anywhere.
Does anyone have a source for nicer batter posts? I can't even find just the plain jane metal cylinder shaped ones that are typically on a boat/car that accept this terminal, although I think the bolt-on kind would be ideal. I'm going to use a 100A load on each battery (just to start the engine for 1-3s).
Is there some small component source I don't know of? Also, I'm looking for some thick bus bars as well.
Also, to contribute something, here is a great place to get marine wire. http://www.bestboatwire.com/
- #3
Those are all I can find, they seem pretty cheap. The reviews are bad as well.
Deleted member 4428
Guest
- #4
Might be better to cut the conventional battery terminal off the cable and crimp on a heavy flat lug that bolts directly to the battery. Less parts = greater reliability and lower resistance.
Deleted member 4428
Guest
- #6
I have used these and they seem to do the job:
Deleted member 4428
Guest
- #7
Will did a load test on a battery with the terminals you linked to. They got very hot over the duration of the test.
- #8
Good to know. What was the load you tested with those terminals when they got hot and for how long?
Deleted member 4428
Guest
- #9
It was in one of Will's videos. I can't seem to find that video.
- #10
Might be better to cut the conventional battery terminal off the cable and crimp on a heavy flat lug that bolts directly to the battery. Less parts = greater reliability and lower resistance.
That's a good idea. The battery will be in a box of some kind like a waterproof ammo box, so the wire won't be able to go straight into the box to the battery terminal. I also have a few wires hooked up to each battery terminal now so it would be a bit messy.
The site you linked doesn't seem to work, but neat looking terminals.
Keep em' coming!
Deleted member 4428
Guest
- #11
Might want to contact them directly.
- #12
Just found these on amazon for $$$. Blue Sea Connectors. Blue Sea is pretty well known in the marine world, but man $90? I might have to spring for these.
Deleted member 4428
Guest
- #14
Too bad they aren't brass or stainless.
Maast
Compulsive Tinkerer
- #15
Take a look at thise, search for "bulkhead battery terminal"
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
- #16
@JeepHammer may pop in here, he has a link to some really good brass ones he posted elsewhere (I can't find it now). I believe they were for a Forklift.
Another common alternative is to use Anderson Connectors
SB Series is common used in RE: A landing page with product descriptions, product features. drawings, technical drawings and 3D files exclusively about SB Series www.andersonpower.com SB Series
- #17
Race car stuff, 3/8", hard brass, it's called a bulkhead connector. or 'Passthrough' in those circles.
Spend as much as you want to here, they have accessories.
$80 each, but if you just have to have the highest tech... Milspec & FAA approved stuff.
Lithium battery guys might want to check this place out, it's OEM terminals/connectors and they have some cool stuff.
Lithium Battery Terminals
Rebling is a connectors manufacturer which specializes in high current (100 to 1,000 amps) Lithium Battery Terminals. Wherever you find a Lithium Battery Module larger than a loaf of bread, our Feed Through Terminals can be found.
rebling.com
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Entirely a personal choice, but I prefer cable glands with/without the housing, just depends on how 'Swoopy' I'm feeling.
Cable gland and Anderson SB350 amp connectors since every battery string I have can be disconnected from the battery bank.
One less connection, no question of Anderson can conduct 350 Amps or not, and it's stupid simple.
Keeps crap from riding the wires into the battery box, they are just this side of 'Waterproof'
The Cable Gland is the pass through for a full size cable, the housing is the 'RV/Boat' housing that makes for a swoopy finishing touch.
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- #18
For those using a non-conductive box, why not just use brass bolts?
- #19
For those using a non-conductive box, why not just use brass bolts?
No reason you can't unless the bolts are smaller conductors than the cable itself.
*IF* the bolt is restriction/resistance, it's going to heat, so your box material might melt or smoke...
There is also a question of moisture ON the box between your terminal bolts,
And if you use wood, it WILL draw moisture and connect the positive/negative, even if it's with a lot of resistance.
- #20
And if you use wood, it WILL draw moisture and connect the positive/negative, even if it's with a lot of resistanc
bringing this thread up as I have been looking for these things. Was thinking of the brass bolts until I saw your comment. Mine won't be outside, but better safe than sorry. Great point.
Source: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/sourcing-battery-posts-for-lifepo4-build.3368/
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